The Riverton-Crystal Basin Area
The darker blue point, on the map above, is the start of a 30 mile birding trip. Each of the lighter blue dots, represents a stop along the way. You can zoom out on the map to see the entire route. The complete route and each of the stops are described in further detail below.
This region is one of the best montane birding areas within easy driving distance of Sacramento. It is particularly productive during the months of May and June when breeding birds are very active and vocal. Located on the western slope of the Sierra Nevada, approximately 60 miles east of Sacramento, the area provides an excellent opportunity to view a large variety of appealing birds. The area ranges in elevation from approximately 3,500 feet to over 6,000 feet and offers a number of varied habitats for many species of birds. Easily accessible by paved road, the Ice House Road extends over 30 miles in length and can readily provide a full day of interesting and exciting birding.
Birding the site: Specialty birds include Mountain Quail, Calliope Hummingbird, Red-breasted Sapsucker, White-headed Woodpecker, Pileated Woodpecker, Hammond's Flycatcher, Dusky Flycatcher, Olive-sided Flycatcher, Cassin's Vireo, Townsend's Solitaire, Hermit Warbler, MacGillivray's Warbler, Lazuli Bunting, Green-tailed Towhee, Fox Sparrow, Purple Finch, and Cassin's Finch. There is always a chance for a special bird such as a Northern Goshawk or a Northern Pygmy-Owl. Nearly 150 species have been reported via eBird for the Crystal Basin area. eBird Sightings
A good time of year to bird this area is from early May to late June when some migrants are still passing through and breeding birds are most evident. Visits at other times of the year can also provide good birding although usually with fewer species of birds. The fall migration may produce both south-bound migrants and higher elevation species descending to lower elevations. Snow in winter normally closes off the area but exploring at this time of year might produce a surprise or two.
Set your trip odometer to zero as you begin your drive up the Ice House Road. A stop located 0.5 mile up the road is a good place to assemble birding gear and to stretch after the long drive or to meet up with friends. You can park on the left side of the road beside the concrete barriers. Birding here is challenged by the din of traffic below on Highway 50, but be alert for Cassin's Vireo, Black-throated Gray Warbler, Nashville Warbler, Black-headed Grosbeak, and Spotted Towhee.
Continuing your drive, round the sharp curve and stop at 0.9 mile, parking on the left near a power pole. The hillside above you provides a rich mosaic of black oak, ponderosa pine, incense cedar, and a dense understory of chaparral shrubs which in turn attracts an interesting mix of birds. Breeding species include Western Wood-Pewee, Bushtit, Nashville Warbler, Western Tanager, Black-headed Grosbeak and Lazuli Bunting. In May of 2005 there was the unanticipated and pleasant surprise in the discovery of a male Indigo Bunting here.
Another productive location is at 2.1 miles. Rounding the corner, you can safely park on the right at the wide pullout. A broad vista provides excellent viewing opportunities, and a spotting scope can be useful. Scan the distant snags for raptors. Northern Goshawk has been noted here in May, but Red-tailed Hawk and American Kestrel are more likely. The snags provide perches for Band-tailed Pigeon, Acorn Woodpecker, and Olive-sided Flycatcher. The elevation is still low enough for Anna's Hummingbird, Acorn Woodpecker, Northern House Wren, Bewick's Wren, Wrentit, Hutton’s Vireo, and Bullock's Oriole. This area has largely grown back since the 1992 Cleveland Corral Fire that burned 25,000 acres of forest. Shortly after the fire, Lazuli Buntings and Northern House Wrens became common, but now as the area grows back and habitat changes, a new suite of birds will arrive.
The U.S. Forest Service Information Area located at 2.9 miles as long been a favorite stop. In recent years, however, it has been open only sporadically. If open, there is a restroom here and ample parking. If closed, one must park by the roadside to access the area. Here Black Oaks provide good foraging for warblers and vireos. Anna’s Hummingbird, Steller’s Jay, Western Tanager, and Purple Finch are all birds that one might find here. A posted map outlines the Crystal Basin region and can be useful in orienting one's self to the area and to any available campgrounds. You will want to spend some time here as the birding can be very productive. For a few years following the 1992 fire, the charred hillside above the road went through a recovery stage that attracted Black-throated Sparrow and Black-chinned Sparrow, but the area has now grown back and no longer attracts these species. Should you encounter any recent burns along the drive, a careful look is worthy of your time. eBird Sightings
At one-half mile past the Forest Service Rest Area (mileage 3.6), note a broad curve where parking is available on the left. A bushy draw here frequently has a trickle of water that is attractive to birds. Skulking MacGillivray's Warblers favor the dense undergrowth here and are most easily detected by their song. Listen as well for Fox Sparrows. If a Fox Sparrow is perched up and singing its song, get to know the song well for it closely resembles the song of Green-tailed Towhees. The call notes, however, are quite distinctive. This thick-billed race of Fox Sparrow gives a metallic chip note quite similar to that of a California Towhee, whereas the Green-tailed Towhee gives a soft kitten-like mew note.
The next productive stop is at mileage 5.2. Upon rounding the corner, park on the right and check both the draw below and the snags on the hillside above. The excellent visibility here affords an opportunity to look for Golden Eagle, Band-tailed Pigeon, and many other species. A sizeable list of other birds is usually obtained at this location due to a nice mix of habitat and the ease of viewing birds. The rocks here are attractive to rattlesnakes so keep an eye out as to where you step.
Just a bit farther at 5.6 miles is a little pocket of habitat that can be surprisingly good due to a water seep and some willows growing here. A quick stop here can be productive. Mountain Aggregates Mine is just down the hill from this location. Here you have reached an elevation that is prime for Mountain Quail, more often heard than seen, but one may be lucky while driving, particularly in the early morning.
As you continue driving on Ice House Road, be alert for productive habitats. Tree farms with dense stands of pine with little or no understory can be bypassed. Instead look for chaparral, oaks, and associated habitat diversity to make the best use of your time. Areas with standing snags are always good to check for Band-tailed Pigeons, woodpeckers, flycatchers, and raptors.
The odometer reading 6.9 miles brings you to the Granite Springs Road which exits the main road on the right as you round a curve. Sometimes driving a few miles of this lightly traveled road will produce Mountain Quail. In the summer of 1997, several Black-throated Sparrows were a surprising discovery here. They were found several hundred yards up from the junction with the main road and occupied the upper hillside. For a couple of summers, the species persisted until the area reverted back to pines. eBird Sightings If you wish to further explore this area, continue on the Granite Springs Road for another three miles to the site of a recent burn. The Freds Fire in October 2004 burned nearly 8,000 acres. The tall stands of Douglas fir, stately ponderosa pine, and sheltering incense cedar that provided habitat for Northern Goshawk and Spotted Owl are mostly gone. But as the area begins its gradual transition to its former look, the changes with time will be interesting to observe. Any still standing tall snags may provide homes to many cavity-nesting birds. American Kestrel, Northern Flicker, Lewis’s Woodpecker, Red-breasted Sapsucker, Pygmy Nuthatch, Tree Swallow, and Mountain Bluebird are all likely to take up residence.
Back on the Ice House Road, a nice panorama of the Crystal Range appears as the road climbs. At mileage 7.6 you can stop to enjoy this vista while checking the distant, deep ravine below for Lewis's Woodpecker. The tall standing snags are sometimes used by these woodpeckers as they swoop out to fly catch. It also provides a full view of the sky where you might see soaring raptors or note Band-tailed Pigeons winging by. Anywhere along this road stretch you might find either Mountain or Western Bluebirds.
At about mileage 8.5, the road clears the burn area from the 1992 fires, and the habitat changes. The first aspens appear and at mileage 8.9 the aspens reveal an excellent birding area. If only one or two cars are being driven, park on the right where an old logging road is blocked by two large boulders. If more cars are involved or you miss this location, park 200 yards farther down on the left where there is ample room near the road leading to Silver Creek Campground (another good birding area!) and walk back to the old logging road. Follow this overgrown road down to a small stream and the aspen grove. This is a delightful spot, and the birding here can be terrific. With a little exploration, Green-tailed Towhees and Calliope Hummingbirds can be found. The aspen grove supports a number of cavity nesters. Williamson's Sapsuckers are rare at this location, but they have been found in some years. White-headed Woodpeckers and Hairy Woodpeckers are more likely. Yellow-rumped Warblers are common at this elevation, and both MacGillivray's Warbler and Wilson 's Warblers are present. Check the tops of tall standing snags for an Olive-sided Flycatcher, a vocal species easily detected by its distinctive calls. It is worthwhile to make a loop walk here by hiking up along the creek and carefully checking the tops of willow clumps for the highly territorial male Calliope Hummingbirds. Dusky Flycatchers are found in this habitat and often nest in the aspens. After reaching the upper portion of this wet area, cut to the left to traverse the hillside. A few trails can be followed that will help you skirt the edge of the hillside while you try to sort out the subtle differences in the songs of Fox Sparrows and Green-tailed Towhees which are common here. The area is also good for Mountain Quail, particularly in late summer when family groups are scurrying about. A grassy meadow is encountered below as you complete your circuit. The area of wet grasses and adjacent shrubs may produce Lincoln's Sparrows. Coming back to your starting point, be alert for Red-breasted Sapsuckers that nest in the aspens. Other birds to look for here are Western Wood-Pewee, Mountain Chickadee, Cassin's Vireo, Purple Finch, and Pine Siskin. Two hours is not too long to spend at this delightful location. eBird Sightings
Ice House Store is at the 9.3 mileage mark. If open, food, drinks, and gasoline are available in addition to restrooms. Barn Swallows nest under the eaves and the area attracts blackbirds and cowbirds. Remember, however, this is private property and always ask for permission before venturing out behind the store or to the cabin area to bird. eBird Sightings A location that is open to the public is Ice House Reservoir and it is just a short drive to the east, easily reached by following the signage off Ice House Road. There is a place to picnic here, but the reservoir is heavily utilized by boaters and fishers. eBird Sightings Sometimes the reservoir attracts interesting birds such as Common Merganser or Osprey. At this point in your travels, many birders elect to go on to Wrights Lake. By continuing past Ice House Reservoir, it is only 8.5 miles on paved road. Birding the Wrights Lake area can be very productive. At the higher elevation of 7,000 feet, specialty birds include Sooty Grouse, Northern Goshawk, Black-backed Woodpecker, Williamson's Sapsucker, Clark’s Nutcracker, Pine Grosbeak, Cassin's Finch, and Evening Grosbeak. This area is particularly attractive in late summer when many warbler species have ascended to higher elevations and have formed loose flocks prior to migration. eBird Sightings Upon leaving Wrights Lake, simply follow the connecting paved road for 8 miles to Highway 50. The route passes Lyons Creek Trail, another birding hot spot that is also great for hiking. Once back down to Highway 50, the birding loop is complete and may the drive back be filled with fond memories of a great day.
If continuing on the Loon Lake route, notice that once past Ice House Store, the habitat and birding change significantly. Pileated Woodpecker, Hammond's Flycatcher, and Hermit Warbler all become more common. Proceed to mileage 10.3 (or about one mile past the Ice House Store) and park on the right by an old logging road. This is an excellent area for Hammond's Flycatcher and walking around the area here is likely to produce other species of interest including White-headed Woodpecker, Red-breasted Nuthatch, Cassin's Vireo, and possibly Pacific Wren.
Continuing another half-mile, at mileage 10.8, brings you to an intersection with Big Hill Lookout Road. Exploring along the side roads here can be interesting and there is usually less traffic than on Ice House Road allowing one to walk the roads. Look for White-headed Woodpeckers, Pileated Woodpeckers, both Dusky and Hammond’s Flycatchers, Cassin’s Vireo, Mountain Chickadees, Brown Creeper, Red-breasted Nuthatches, Golden-crowned Kinglets, Olive-sided Flycatcher, and Western Tanager. It is also good habitat for Hammond's Flycatcher.
Leaving the Big Hill intersection and continuing towards Loon Lake, the next several miles provide your best bet for Pileated Woodpeckers. Stop frequently to look and listen in areas of mature forest. You should find Golden-crowned Kinglets foraging high in the tops of the conifers. Check the trunks for Brown Creepers working up the trees. Hermit Thrushes are sometimes heard in the distance. This elevation is the beginning of the prime area for Hermit Warblers. These beautiful warblers can be seen singing from the upper reaches of the conifers at a height that makes photography difficult.
At mileage 12.5 you will pass by the Crystal Basin Ranger Station on your right. The next 6.5 miles to the Union Valley Reservoir overlook should be checked carefully for White-headed Woodpeckers, Hammond's Flycatchers, Golden-crowned Kinglets, Hermit Thrushes, Hermit Warblers, and Cassin's Finches. Sometimes Evening Grosbeaks can be found and, in some years, Red Crossbills.
To view Union Valley Reservoir, continue driving until the road passes under some power lines at mileage 19.5. You will note large-diameter water pipes that feed into the reservoir. This location provides one of the better views of the reservoir although the water itself never seems to have many birds. Keep viewing the skies, however, as Bald Eagles have nested along the shores of this lake near Yellow-Jacket Campground. Also, check the sky at this location for Vaux's Swifts. Although not a confirmed breeder here, the species has been noted here during the breeding season.
Away from the reservoir on the hillside above the road are black oaks interspersed with chaparral. In this interesting mixture you may again find Black-throated Gray Warblers and Black-headed Grosbeaks, species quite different from the norm of the past several miles through pine and fir forest. Acorn Woodpeckers, rather unusual for being so high in the Sierra, have sometimes been seen at this location. This south facing exposure favors trees and shrubs partial to a drier, warmer environment and illustrates how a particular habitat is coupled with its own distinctive set of birds.
Continuing another two miles brings you to a summit at mileage 21.4 and an elevation of 5,760 feet. Look for a sign that reads Robb’s Saddle. Townsend’s Solitaire is often observed here. The side road for the Van Vleck Ranch 5 begs for exploration. There is ample space for parking to explore here. The location still provides fairly good birding although selective logging has removed some of the larger trees that were favored by Pileated Woodpeckers. Incense cedar, ponderosa pine, and a sprinkling of black oak make this area an attractive habitat for many species including Hermit Thrush and Fox Sparrow.
By this point and time of day, you may have seen most of the birds you are looking for and be ready to head back. But individuals wanting to continue to Loon Lake can do so by driving to mileage 24.6 where the main road forks. The junction is clearly signed, and, after five additional miles, the road reaches Loon Lake, elevation 6,400 feet. As the elevation increases during the drive to the lake, scenic views open up. Note the black oak habitat on the south facing slope that is attractive to Black-throated Gray Warblers. On the rocky outcroppings above the road, Rock Wrens can be found. Loon Lake really does not live up to its name since loons are really quite unexpected even in migration. One might find, however, a few species of waterfowl including Canada Goose and Common Merganser. Sometimes a California Gull is seen patrolling the lake, more properly termed a reservoir, utilized by the Sacramento Municipal Utility District (S.M.U.D.) for generating electrical power. There is camping and fishing available. At this elevation one can wish for Clark’s Nutcrackers and Pine Grosbeaks but the birding here is a bit slower than that found at the lower elevations. eBird Sightings
There are many places along this route that are not mentioned but which you might wish to explore. Bear in mind that while much of the land along the road is public land, there are a number of large parcels owned by Michigan-California Lumber Company. Some of this land is posted, so please respect private property rights. Be advised that logging operations may be under way in some areas and consequently your safety becomes an issue so avoid these side roads where logging signage has been posted.
Over the years, the Ice House Road has experienced an increase in traffic, but you can still find many safe pullouts to park and bird. When you see a unique looking habitat and a safe pullout, stop and see if you can anticipate the birds you will encounter. Doing this, you will learn much about the birds of the area in addition to generating a good day's list of birds. From this modest start using these suggested birding locations in the Crystal Basin, one can further explore new stops and pursue locations reached by side roads and trails. It is an exciting area to cover, and there will be surprises awaiting you as well as discoveries you can make. One visit to this area with its fine specialty birds will provide you with plenty of incentive to return again and again. Enjoy your birding.
Directions: Ice House Road begins at the former settlement of Riverton, roughly a one-hour drive east from Sacramento. To reach the Riverton area, take Highway 50 east. From Placerville, continue east an additional 20 miles to the point where Highway 50 narrows from four lanes to two lanes and crosses the South Fork of the American River. Just beyond the bridge, both a sign and a left turn lane direct traffic to Ice House Road and the Crystal Basin Area. Be careful in making your left turn, however, as speeding west-bound traffic rounding the curve ahead can pose a hazard. As you begin driving up the hill, you begin a 30-mile route on paved road that passes through a variety of habitats containing chaparral, black oak, ponderosa pine, incense cedar, aspen, and fir. The road takes a northerly course paralleling the Crystal Range and climbs to Loon Lake, elevation 6,400 feet. There are also a number of side roads leading off from Ice House Road that provide additional areas to explore.
Ed Harper
Note: While most of the stops along the Riverton-Crystal Basin route have no parking fees, Wrights Lake and the Ice House Reservoir both have an $8 day use fee.