First things first: the fire season isn't over. But it appears to be slowing down. Last year, the smoke that hung over Sacramento was hard to bear on top of the pandemic. It wasn't safe indoors or out. From a local smoke perspective, this summer and fall has been much more tolerable, though the fires have been on our doorstep. I recently visited portions of the Caldor and Tamarack fire zones with a friend, driving portions of Hwys 50, 89, and 88.

Smoke still hung in the canyon of the South Fork of the American River, with puffs of smoke coming from hillsides, and nearing Echo Summit, the devastation to cabins was most evident. We visited Taylor Creek along Tahoe's southwest shore, enjoying the biting cold morning and impressive fall colors. Most enjoyable was extended views of foraging White-headed Woodpeckers and jumping kokanee salmon in the shallows near the creek's mouth. We then headed over Luther Pass to the little park along the creek in Markleeville. It was there that I saw the only monarch butterfly I've seen this year in California. The town and the park escaped the fire, though much of the forest north of town appears to be a complete loss. Similarly, the trees around tranquil little Curtz Lake and the denser forest west of Indian Creek Reservoir are devastated by high intensity fire that appears to have killed nearly all of the trees. Despite this scene, it was fun to watch over 100 Pinyon Jays foraging on Jeffrey pine cones and to hear their wavering calls. The reservoir surface was alive with over 3,000 coots, and hundreds of ducks, including a few Redheads.

We were sad to see the little canyon east of the reservoir near Diamond Valley also completely burned where in June we had enjoyed the songs and activity of Rock Wrens, Brewer's Sparrows, and Black-throated Sparrows. Where the road crosses the Carson River, there was an American Dipper on a rock downstream of the bridge. It was hard to hear over the sound of flowing water, but despite the lateness of the year, the bird was singing! Coming home via Hwy 88, the aspens were lovely. Some favorite places will not be the same, at least in my lifetime. Others remain mostly intact. It is a privilege to be so near so many interesting and beautiful areas, even though many are under threat. Surely there will be (occasional) better years ahead.